No one likes to end up with a rough or textured wall while house painting unless it’s deliberate. DIY home painting carries this risk however, if you’re new to this type of finishing. Here are a few painting tips to ensure you get a nice clean, smooth finish to your project.

1. Make sure the wall is smooth. You’ll see all the imperfections in the wall after painting, unless you fill in any holes or dimples and sand it. This all takes time, but in the end, it will be worth the extra hours you put into it.

2. Remove any bubbling or peeling paint. If the surface of the wall isn’t nice and smooth, you’ll need to look at removing the paint before you start over. This can be done with paint thinner or with a scraper, depending on how you want to work.

3. Use primer. A layer of primer paint can really help level things out. It will also even out any color irregularities and can make your entire finish seem much smoother. Try applying with a roller for a nice, smooth surface.

As long as you are using quality paint and a good quality paintbrush or roller and following the above painting tips, you should end up with a nice paint finish in any DIY home painting project. Just be sure to take the time to prep the walls before house painting for best results.

You’ll find lots of great painting tips on this blog, since DIY home painting is often the first thing people tackle. However, today we’re going to look at house painting tools. Having real tools will make the entire process far more pleasant.

Paintbrushes: Obviously, you’ll need paintbrushes in order to paint and they should be of good quality so they don’t leave bristles stuck to the wall. Even if you opt for a roller, paintbrushes are essential for trim and corners.

Rollers: Look for good quality rollers with a uniform surface. If the roller is lumpy, you’ll have to go over the same spot again and again, wasting time, energy and paint.

Extension poles: These are invaluable when you have higher rooms to paint. When it comes to house painting, you’ll find that you frequently need to paint higher than you can reach and extension poles really help.

Masking tape: It can be a real pain to tape things off, but it is well worth it when you peel back the tape and see that nice crisp line of paint! Invest in a couple rolls of masking tape and use it well.

Drop cloths: These will save your floors and hours of trying to safely remove paint from surfaces that were never meant to be painted. No matter how careful you are, you’ll always have drips and spatters, so prepare.

The right tools, along with the painting tips you’ll find here, will ensure an easier DIY home painting experience. It may be one of the easiest ways to change the look of your home, but house painting can be frustrating if you are working with brushes that shed. Get the proper tools, even if it costs a bit more and you’ll be much happier.

House painting isn’t always as easy as it sounds. In fact, for many, DIY home painting is a real challenge, particularly when painting the exterior. If you want to paint like a pro, I’ve compiled some handy painting tips to help you out.

1. It’s all in the prep. The exterior of your home is going to have a lot of residue that can interfere with proper painting. Getting ready to paint will probably take up at least half the time you spend on the outside of your home. Use epoxy to fix small damages and replace other damaged areas.

Pressure washing is a great way to get rid of dirt and grime, but once you’ve done that, you will still need to scrape and sand to remove old, peeling paint or it will blister your new paint.

2. Don’t forget the primer. The primer paint is a very important part of house painting. Many DIY home painting crews skip this step because they want to save money. You’ll just end up wasting paint, though, since regular paint will need several coats to cover everything. Of all the painting tips, this is possibly the most important.

3. Choose the right paint. Exterior house paint is not just for decoration, it is also a protective cap on your home. The majority of professionals use alkyd paint which smells strongly but will last far longer than latex paint. It also goes on smoother, but takes time to dry.

All of these painting tips can be used in your DIY home painting to help you get a more professional finish in your work. Your house painting doesn’t have to look like an amateur did it, if you take the time to prepare everything and choose the right paint.

Faux Finishing

Faux finish painting is a hot trend for interior home decor it has greatly enhanced the look of ordinary rooms to extraordinary looking rooms. It can do wonders to your space. It creates the room and mood of its own, to an otherwise boring look.

Where Can You Do For Finish Painting?

Faux painting techniques can be performed on just about anything. You can’t perform it on drywall, steel, even on glass. You can take a dull ordinary looking window frame and do a “faux painting woodgrain” finish on it. So now, all of a sudden, you have a beautiful window instead of boring plain looking painted window. You can refinish your fireplace mantel and do a “faux painting marble” on that too. This can save you a lot of money and time. You don’t have to buy a new fireplace and you don’t have to hire a stone mason to install it.

Faux Finish Painting Techniques

In some instances you start your finishing the regular way with the base coat of regular latex paint. The second third and fourth and so on consecutive coats are applied in special techniques and materials, which I will talk about a future posts. If you choose to do a wall with some specialized techniques on it, read up on the procedure carefully. Acquire all the necessary materials and the proper tools to perform the specialty finish. I would strongly recommend to experiment on either a large piece of drywall or a wall somewhere that is not important to experiment on. Once you have learnt and experimented with the materials and techniques and you feel comfortable you can perform this application on the wall you choose you can go ahead prepare your new wall. If you’re doing a frame than practice on a piece of wood or something similar to what you’re planning on doing the finish on. Again if you’re comfortable with what you did on the practice piece of wood go ahead and do it on the good peace.

For Further Resources On Faux Finish

And you tried little hands-on with this application and you are not satisfied you can always go to an interior painting company for assistance.

Paint quality plays an important role  in your interior wall painting project. There is a large difference between a regular latex wall paint and a top line paint. There are some additives which don’t even exist in the cheaper latex paint. And there are some extra and better additives added to the more expensive wall paints. These additives are for, better coverage, more high hiding qualities, better sealing qualities, and better leveling qualities which means that you will have less orange peel effect in your paint job.

Better coverage means do you’ll have to use less paint per square foot. Also better paint coverage eases the amount of labor painting the wall. And finally since you are painting the wall less you will be using less paint. This in itself is a large savings.

Top line paints also hide the underlying color much better, because they break up into finer droplets leaving less space between the droplets to expose the underlying surface. Also what this does is it allows the paint to lay flatter on the wall giving the paint job a deeper look not having so much orange peel effect and roller marks left on the wall.

Interior wall painting basically is easier done with good quality top line paints such as “Benjamin Moore” designer series paints.

I also can say little bit more about this on my other house painters blog site.

Lots of times I get called in because a customer has a ceiling repair problem. Many times they try and attempt to repair the  drywall ceiling themselves. Typically they can barely explain visually the problem they’re having with their ceiling.The problems can range from , drywall cracks to ceiling texture repairs. Ceiling repairs are usually caused by some kind of water damage almost all the time and very rarely by someone damaging it from the ground by moving furniture. Many times customers want to put in lighting or something that uses electrical connections on the ceiling or sometimes there is some plumbing work to be done or repaired. And the plumbing pipes are between the floor joists and the ceiling.

The majority of ceilings are wooden frames called joists, and this is the support for the floor above. And the bottom of this joist is the support for the drywall ceiling which will be attached to it.

If for example you have a hole that was created for some reason whether you were exploring around inside the ceiling for something or you had a damage of some kind and you cut it out making a whole there are a couple of ways of repairing this. An older method is to cut a perfectly dimensioned square or rectangle hole. Then cut a perfectly dimension replacement drywall to fit this whole. Next you insert a couple of pieces of 1’ by 2’ strips of wood which you insert into the hole and straddle the hole, then fasten the piece of wood on both ends of the hole to secure the piece’s of wood over the hole, Note and measure where the strip of wood is so when you screw the drywall in place you don’t miss the wood strip!. Once you have your two pieces of wood secured, you can now insert the drywall cutout into this hole being careful that your piece of drywall you are inserting is not oversized causing the drywall to break. The piece that you’re putting in though should not be so undersized that you’re defeating the reason for inserting a piece of drywall.

Now that you have your piece of drywall inserted and scrape away some of the  spray texture from the adjacent ceiling texture you can take some fiber tape and cover all the edges of the repair. You can now plaster over the tape in a few coats of drywall mud.

Another method of repairing a hole in the ceiling is laying a metal screen over top of the hole. Make sure that the whole as clean edges nothing protruding past the baseline of the ceiling causing the metal screen to have a bump in its or even worse not laying flat to the ceiling. These metal screens should be self adhesive. You can usually buy them in the paint store or at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They come in different sizes small medium and large. When you place the screening over the whole make sure that the surrounding area of the hole is clean and flat free of ceiling texture so the screening adhesive will stick to it. Then again you can start plastering over top with a few coats of drywall mud.

Sometimes with water leaks the water travels up and down the floor joist causing the dry wall to belly  in a larger area. At this time you have to analyze and inspect where the drywall ceiling is still secure to the floor joist. Then you have to mark out the bad area, all the way around. I usually do this with a tape measure and either a long straight stick or a yardstick. I square up my hole with a tape measure to make sure that the hole is square. ones I have established and marked out my cut our use the yardstick or the longer piece of straight wood to use as a guide for both marking and or cutting out the drywall.

(I have this section in detail in another part of my blog, this will explain how you do this properly. You don’t want this large piece of drywall falling down from its own weight.)

Now that you have your drywall up and repaired and plastered you can go ahead as normal. You can sand the ceiling smooths from your drywall mud and prime it.

Now depending on what the surface finish was on your ceiling you can go ahead and either paint it, or you can spray your ceiling texture onto repaired drywall ceiling.

First you have to make an assessment of what you want to do with your Used kitchen cabinets. Do you want to paint them or do you want to strip them and re-stain them?

First of all find a container you can put all your hardware into, take off all your hardware.

Suspend a plastic wall  made out of thin plastic around the area containing the cupboards. This can be a light gauge plastic that you hang from the ceiling down to the floor to contain all the dust you going to make. You should use a painter’s tape so you won’t tear the paint off the ceiling.

If you’re going to just re-varnish the kitchen cupboard surfaces use a very light sandpaper 120 or above basically just to remove the top layer removing dust particles and to clean it up to accept a new coat of  white paint or what ever the color is or varnish if it is a varnished cabinet door or cabinet.

Sanding kitchen cabinet door

If you have loads of layers of paint on your cupboards you might consider acquiring an orbital sander and  begin with a 60 grit sand paper to aggressively remove the paint. After using it for a while (the orbital sander) you will get a hang of it. Example how much to press and how quickly the sanding machine can move around the the cupboard doors or cabinets.

Depending on how complicated the profiles are on your wood you might have to fold your sandpaper in half or quarters to give the rigidity and sand spots that you can’t do by finger.

Once you’ve got everything sanded down dust everything off with a soft brush moving one way. Next I usually take a softer rag just put a touch of varsol on it or some kind of paint thinner solvents to lightly moistened the rag so it will pick up leftover dust.

Now you are ready to paint the cabinets, make sure you get a very high “quality” paint that has good leveling agents in it (this will allow paint to nicely smooth out),I like using benjamin moore paints

It is always better to put multiple coats on instead of one thick finish coat. Start in the top part of the cabinet and work downward smoothing the paint out as you go. Don’t overdo it and try to make it look perfect in the first coat, the thinner the better. Always brush in the direction of the length section (this is like ” painting with the grain” of the wood sort of speak painting lengthwise) this also means that if there are any solid rails,  or solid frame type wood framing something you should also paint length wise don’t cross paint long pieces of wood paint everything lengthwise with nice smooth easy strokes. And don’t pack a lot of paint on the strokes. Once you have the piece of wood or door completely covered then it is best with a dry brush, go from end to end without picking up the brush. This will take out any squiggly brush impressions out of the paint.

Now that everything is dried, exam in your work. If everything looks well your second coat should go on very nicely. Again with a very fine sandpaper and very lightly pass over the paint job. If you did a nice even coat on the first coat sanding should only be to remove dust particles.

Again with the same method you can put one more coat on thinly and evenly always watching for runs or sags at corners.

Now that you’re done and the cabinets are dry you can remove your drop curtain carefully, and you can pull up your drop sheet from the floor by folding it in over top of itself not to upset the dust.

If your little leery about undertaking the refinishing of your used kitchen cabinets you can also go to Toronto painters for further help on this.

Here is a quick world video on someone painting a interior wooden door which is the same concept as painting kitchen cabinet door.

Anyone can get into house painting, but like anything else, if you know the tricks, you’ll be far more efficient at DIY home painting. Fortunately, I can share some of the painting tips that I’ve picked up over the years to help your project go just a little faster. Today we’re going to look at painting trim.

Nothing makes a room pop than having the trim in a contrasting or complimentary color to the main walls. You might want to paint the trim white while the walls are a brighter color, or you may use the trim to add a splash of interest to an otherwise white or cream room by using colored paint. Either way, it can have a major effect on the feel of the space, so consider it carefully. White trim usually gives a clean, finished feel to a room, while colors that are darker than the wall can lend a more elegant ambiance.

Painting tips that I’ve picked up over the years have been extremely helpful when it comes to DIY home painting. For example, when house painting, you should paint the trim last, since it’s possible to spatter the wall paint color onto the baseboards. To protect the walls when working with trim, use 2” painter’s tape butted up against the edge. You’ll have quite a large margin of error and once you peel that tape up, everything will look crisp and perfect.

A paint guard is a very useful tool, as well, to prevent spatters and accidental brush strokes. Used in conjunction with the tape, you pretty much guarantee perfect results.

Another very useful item to have on hand is an angled brush. Painting trim can be rather uncomfortable as you try to maneuver into corners and along the floor or ceiling, but an angled paint brush can make all the difference in how difficult this is.

Hopefully these trim painting tips will make your DIY home painting project a little easier. When you can do things faster and easier on your own, such as in house painting, you’ll be more likely to keep doing it. Soon, your home will have a whole new look.

There’s different ways of repairing walls, quick easy way for you is to scrape the crack or hole and fill it full of plaster, then sand it down and then prime it and paint it. This is probably the easiest way and most people do it. This way but if you have a continually cracking ceiling or wall over time it will crack again. The best way to repair a crack or a hole is also use some drywall tape or use some fiber tape to secure the repair from hairline cracks in the future.

The paper tape and the fiber tape does have a certain thickness to them and when you cover them with plaster it will give them further thickness. To properly cover these tapes up you need at least two coats of plaster. The first coat is your initial coat to secure the tape to the wall over the crack or hole and the second plastering will feather out the repair to the rest of the wall getting rid of any hump from the tape. When you’re sanding your drywall plaster repair I generally use a flat pad pole sander to give me an even sanding over the wall leveling any hump left by the plaster.

How to stucco over a ceiling drywall repair or a drywall crack repair? You still have to do the same procedure as you would if you want to paint it because the wall repair patch or the ceiling drywall repair still would have a hump that the stucco will follow. Of course the stucco will cover insignificant bumps or humps but will not hide blatantly large bump. Especially so if the whole wall or ceiling is totally flat except for this one bump.

Water damage repair should also be sealed with stain sealer in a large radius of the affected area to ensure that the stain will not bleed through the plaster ceiling drywall repair. I usually spray or role stain blocker on the area prior to performing the repair.

Bathroom wall repair can be caused by a slew of things but mostly humidity again “water damage”. Any water damage repair should be sealed with stain sealer prior to plastering any drywall crack repairs or whole repairs should be very carefully smoothed out and finished off because of the close proximity to the damage making it more obvious and visible. More attention after he paid for detail in the washroom for two reasons. The second reason is you are using a shinier paint most probably a kitchen bathroom paint and also you have more room lighting.

One day if you come up with some great room painting ideas and come up with some great bedroom paint colors. You first have to make sure you protect everything in your room against paint and sanding dust, so that when you’re finished you don’t have a massive cleanup job ahead of you and ruin your great bedroom painting ideas. When we at toronto painters go into a room to do any painting or repairs we arranged the room in such a way that we can access all the walls and ceiling easily.

Sometimes you have to much furniture in the room to be able to put everything into center we have to remove some of the furniture. If you don’t have much furniture gathered into the center of the room. I usually start with covering all the floors with 4 x 8 strips of dropcloth. I tuck the dropcloth close to the wall or baseboard and I tack it with some tape so it stays there. Next I take some light plastic sheets and cover the furniture. I also tape plastic sheets to the bottom of the furniture to make sure the plastic won’t fall off and also dust won’t get inside underneath the plastic.

And when you are finally done and remove all your coverings from the furniture and the floor then you can really appreciate your new bedroom paint colors or your kid’s room painting or whatever room you painted.

HowTo paint prepare a room